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Jewelry Education > Precious Metals

PRECIOUS METALS

Gold and silver have been prized for thousands of years for their beauty and rarity as well as their hardness and resistance to corrosion. Because of these qualities, precious metals are universal symbols of strength, wealth and power. They are a prized and indispensable part of any jewelry collection.

Here are some basic facts and tips that will help you when you're shopping for fine jewelry of gold, silver or platinum.


GOLD

Gold is the oldest precious metal known to humankind. The metal's luster and remarkable properties have allowed it to be crafted into the world's most coveted and exquisite jewelry.

Gold is the world's most malleable (able to be pounded thin) and ductile (able to be drawn to a fine wire) of all metals. In its pure state, gold is too soft to be worn for jewelry, so it is usually mixed with other metals, such as silver, copper, nickel and zinc, to make it harder. A mixture of metals is called an alloy. The quantity of gold in an alloy is expressed in karats (abbreviated as k or kt). The following chart shows the proportion of pure gold in the most common karat counts:

Gold Purity by Karat Count

Here are the most common colors of gold alloys and the metals used in making them:

Colors of Gold Alloys

Gold-Filled Jewelry

Gold-filled jewelry contains a layer of gold on a base metal. The percentage of gold must be at least 1/20 of the total weight of the piece.

Gold-Overlay Jewelry

Gold-overlay is a layering process in which a base metal is layered with gold. Gold-overlay jewelry uses either 14kt or 10kt gold.

Vermeil Jewelry

A sterling silver base that is coated or plated with gold or gold alloy, Vermeil jewelry is created with the following guidelines:

  • The gold coating must never be less than 10kt in fineness.
  • The minimum thickness for this coating must be 3 microns. (A micron is a measurement of thickness used in the jewelry industry.)
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SILVER

Silver has a long and noble history, second only to that of gold. Popular as a jewelry metal for thousands of years, it is harder than gold and much more plentiful. The abundant supply and ease of working it make silver more affordable and a good alternative to gold and platinum (although it does tarnish and need polishing from time to time).

Sterling silver is a silver alloy with a fixed standard of purity. It consists of 925 parts silver (out of 1,000) and 75 parts copper. Like gold alloys, sterling silver can be used to plate other metals.

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PLATINUM

Platinum is a pure, silvery-white metal prized for its rarity and beauty. The name "platina" came from Spanish explorers in 1735 and, ironically, means "silver with little value." Today, we know that ounce for ounce, platinum is the most expensive precious metal because of its rarity, purity and durability. Unlike gold, platinum usually is not alloyed with other metals.

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CARING FOR YOUR PRECIOUS METALS

Cleaning

For cleaning precious metals, we recommend using a cleaner or detergent bath, steam cleaning or using an ultrasonic cleaner.

Storing

Keep your jewelry in a fabric-lined case or a box that has individual compartments. If you use ordinary boxes, such as department store gift boxes, wrap each piece of jewelry in tissue paper. Important: Do not let your diamond pieces tumble around with other jewelry. Diamonds can scratch other gemstones, precious metals and even other diamonds.

Traveling

When traveling, pack your jewelry with care. Many types of travel cases specifically designed for jewelry are on the market. These carryalls come in various sizes, shapes and fabrics. Most have velvet pads inside to hold pins and earrings, and compartments for bracelets and necklaces.

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